What a wonderful, wildly rustic place I discovered Croatia was. I have wanted to go for years and recently, my dream finally came true when I visited with my husband. I already can't wait to go back.
The first night we stayed in Split and wandered through the old town and ate lunch on the harbour looking out over the boats, along the stretch of palm trees. Afterwards, we indulged in scrumptious ice-creams, as good as any Italian gelato. I slurped caramel and my husband had blueberry. In the evening, we treated ourself to a meal in a fancy restaurant in the old square - it was very trendy with live music and had red lights beaming down from the ceiling on a rotation system. This actually started to make me feel seasick so I asked to move to another table. Luckily, the amused waiter was happy to assist with my wacky request and soon I felt balanced again.
(Restaurants and palm trees along the water's edge in Split...)
As I tend to get seasick, my husband kindly offered to get me some acupressure wrist bands, anti-sickness tablets, a baguette and some lemonade to help keep my stomach settled on the ferry crossing from Split to Vis. He did decide to come to my rescue, however, just as we were second in the queue, waiting to board the ferry. He jumped from the driver's seat and went forth on his mission and ten minutes later, the car in front turned it's engine on and started to board the ship. A staff member waved me on but I made weird facial expressions and pointed to the empty seat beside me. The car behind revved up and overtook me, as I frantically called my husband to tell him we were boarding. He said he was five minutes away and I could hear from his breath that he was running. He reached the car, leapt inside, handed me my supplies and on he drove. Phew.
We made our way up on deck to focus on the horizon and avoid wanting to vomit. But, after all my worrying, the water was as calm as a pond the whole crossing. We still made the most of the fresh air and views out to sea, across to the islands, listening to music on headphones until we reached Vis island two hours and twenty minutes later.
(Calm ferry crossing from Split to Vis...)
We wove our way from Vis port along a singular road past fields strewn with poppies, vineyards, wineries, olive trees, richly coloured ploughed fields, wildflowers and long grasses. It was totally natural and unspoilt. Our Airbnb apartment was found by following a bumpy, dirt road and nestled high above craggy rocks, leading down to the sea - which was as clear as a blue lagoon. Our accommodation was enveloped by pine trees and located in the rural Molo Travna. It was simply decorated, clean and quiet. Perfect.
(One of the many vineyards in Vis...)
Usually on holiday, we like to eat out in restaurants but because we were half an hour's drive from either Vis port or Komiza harbour, we just visited there for coffee and pastries in the morning and ate lunch and dinner on the terrace at our apartment. We stocked up on goodies from the supermarkets in Vis and Komiza, then daily, my husband bought fresh fish which he cooked on the BBQ outside and I made up some salad or vegetables, which we ate accompanied by hunks of fresh bread bought from the bakery every day. A few stray cats were our pets for the week and they enjoyed leftover fish with us. We did eat out on our first night at a local winery called ROKI's which served lamb cooked in clay pots covered in charcoal and we drank with red, velvety wine from their own vineyard. We had a tour of the winery and the service was exceptional.
(Fresh fish straight off the BBQ...)
(Komiza harbour where we got our fresh bread and fish...)
(Old farm building surrounded by wildflowers...)
After clambering down the rocks and plunging into the icy cold refreshing water, we would swim over to the other side of the bay or to the little beach and back, climb out and wash the salt off, under the outside shower. It was blissful. Most days we spent lazing about on the terrace balcony reading and sunbathing after our swim, listening to nothing but the lapping of water and feeling muzzy. One day we drove to Stiniva and descended the steep cliff to the cove below. My legs were shaking so much but he terror was worth it for the beautiful views on the walk down and plunging into the water when we got to the bottom - plus the tiny beach bar provided us with cocoa cola and ice-cream which was very welcome. I felt like a professional mountaineer on the climb back up, having to grab tree branches, roots and foot holds in between loose stones but we made it to the top and I am here to tell the tale.
(The craggy rocks leading down to the sea from our airbnb apartment...)
(The scary but beautiful climb down to Stiniva Beach...)
Our final night was in Split, were we stayed in the most stylish Airbnb studio room, made up from an apartment split into three with a shared lobby area consisting of a sofa, chairs and desk. I would totally recommend staying there either as a couple or in a group of a few couples, friends or family. The studio was right in the centre of the old square, within the palace walls, part of the brickwork in each mini apartment. There were delicious restaurants and lovely shops and it was a stone's throw away from Golden Gate and the Gregory of Nin statue (Grgur Ninski) and, of course, we had to rub his golden toe and make a wish.
Where we ate:
Where we stayed:
Split Old Town - Palace Wall Residences - Airbnb