Last month, my husband, Alan, my dog, Lola and I finally went on our long awaited adventure to Ireland. Alan is half Irish but had never been before and I had only ever visited Dublin for a weekend. We wanted to explore the coast and countryside in our VW campervan Gloria, so decided to follow the Wild Atlantic Way during our three weeks holiday booked. However, we only covered a third of the ground as there was so much beauty to take in and we didn't want to rush it. Plus, it's a good excuse to go back.
(During our travels in the Emerald Isle - Ardkearagh)
Day One
We set off at 4am on 14th June to drive to catch the Stena Line ferry from Fishguard in Wales to Rosslare in Ireland. I had been dreading the crossing as tend to get seasick but my Irish friend with a pet dog recommended booking a pet cabin and that I'd be grand. We were in luck on the day as there had been a cancellation and also a discount in price. Not bad at all. The pet cabin was good news for Lola as it meant she didn't have to go to the on board kennel - as a pampered pooch, it could have meant 3 hours of howling for all sailing that day and a shock to the system for Lola. It also meant 3 hours of us all napping and being gently rocked to sleep - us in our human bunk beds and Lola on the floor on her dog bed with no seasickness.
(Lola in the pet cabin)
We departed the ferry and drove Gloria from Rosslare to Dungarvan, where we stayed the night at The Getaway, Dungarvan - an eco camp and campervan site with pods and yurts. There are goats grazing and wild flowers surrounding the walkways to the Nook, where you can wash up, listen to the radio or sit on a comfy sofa and read. There is plenty of info about walks in local area, pubs, etc. The woman who owns and runs the campsite is inspirational and set it up after a divorce and the place is a joy. I particularly loved the corrugated iron shower block with state of the art showers and porcelain sinks with plants. Dogs are allowed, which was lucky for Lola.
(The Nook at The Getaway Eco Campsite, Dungarvan)
(The cool corrugated iron shower at The Getaway Eco Campsite, Dungarvan)
Day Two
We drove from Dungarvan to Kinsale in County Cork and met up with my friend's husband who was on holiday there with his parents. We were shown Charles Fort, where we later set up camp for the night and ate a delicious meal of fish and chips from Shirley's van in the car park - the haddock was caught fresh by her fisherman brother that very day. The views were stunning and the sun shimmied over the water until it set. Earlier we had been taken to Sandy Cove, where we had a refreshing dip in the sea and Alan swam to Sandy Island and back before drying off. We walked along the headland, enjoying the breath taking vistas. Kinsale is a colourful and stylish town full of shops and restaurants and a perfect place to stay on holiday.
(Sandy Cove in Kinsale - perfect for a refreshing dip)
(Sandy Cove Island)
(Charles Fort where we ate fish & chips from Shirley's van)
Day Three
We left Kinsale on a misty, rainy morning after picking up some fresh fish from the local mongers and vegetables from the pink painted greengrocers in town. We headed for Durras along the first part of the Wild Atlantic Way - our adventure was under way. As soon as we hit the road, we noticed how well maintained it was - a joy to drive on and not a pot hole in sight. Luscious greenery surrounded us along our ride. We pulled in at Dunbeacon Campsite which was a charming site run by a hippy couple who owned three Irish Terrier dogs (Mr Baggins, Nancy and Dobby) that made great playmates for our Airedale Terrier, Lola. We cooked sea bream on the BBQ and ate with samphire, boiled new potatoes, padron peppers and vine tomatoes for dinner and drank white wine as we dined with dogs and midges.
(Emerald green scenery at Durrus)
(At Dunbeacon Campsite, Durrus)
(Fresh fish, potatoes, samphire and padron peppers with tomatoes)
Day Four
The next day we drove to Barley Cove - a beautiful beach and stretch of coastline, stopping at Crookhaven for lunch in the sunshine at O’Sullivan's pub, on most southerly point of Ireland. We drove up the rickety road to Sheep's Head but weren't allowed to walk dogs on the scary tip, so took a few photos from as near as we could get and then made our way to that night's campsite which was the Hungry Hill Budget Accommodation Campsite. As soon as we set up, it stared raining and so ate a Father's Day Eve meal of couscous surprise (couscous with tinned sardines and vine tomatoes mixed in - yummy). We scrabbled inside before we got too wet to play cards in the warm and dry.
(Barley Cove, Goleen)
(O'Sullivan's pub at the most southerly point)
(The view from Sheep's Head - we could only go this far with a dog)
(Father's Day Eve meal of couscous, sardines and tomatoes - yummy)
Day Five and Six
(Seefin viewpoint)
We got windswept looking out at the viewpoint rock at Seefin before discovering a Buddhist Meditation Centre and Cafe (dzogchenbeara.org) which became our next point of call, which served homemade quiche and cake overlooking the sea in the peaceful setting near the Buddhist Temple and Care Centre. We ate on the terrace with the wind in our hair as dogs not allowed inside but took turns to mooch around the enchanting little shop and light candles in the temple.
(Crookhaven scenery)
(Dzogchen Beara Cafe at Buddhist Meditation Centre)
(Buddhist Cafe Terrace View)
(Allihies scenery)
In the afternoon, we stumbled upon the perfect spot at Allihies - a ramshackle campsite right on the beach which was home to tents, campervans and hired static caravans. The hot showers were €2 to activate and there were free toilets. Bonus. A retro food van serving delicious buffalo burgers, waffles, wraps, brownies and coffees was on site, as well as a portable sauna. We met a lovely woman in the caravan parked next to us who runs the The Hound Hotel in Cork and said she looks after a dog she said that looks just like Lola and is called Dude - cool name. The farmer who owns the campsite did a loop every early evening to collect the campsite fees, in his mini tractor with his dog trotting along behind him. It was such a charming and chilled set up. It was so good to feel the gritty sand exfoliating the dry skin from your heels walking along the beach then paddling our feet and heading back to the campervan - sand clinging on for dear life until it was rinsed away by the tap outside the shower block. We swam in the cold, restorative sea, the colour of turquoise and which matched the bruise on my shin where I clunked my leg the night before. We ate freshly prepared buffalo burgers by the local girls running the food van, reading in our warmed by the sun camping chairs overlooking the beach. The sea breeze danced over our skin as our wet towels and swimwear hung over the campsite fence - realising we'd blocked the view. We didn't want to leave but there was plenty more to see, so we only stayed for two nights before setting on our way.
(Lola drinking fresh water at one end of Allihies Beach)
(View from our campervan spot)
(Outdoor washing up spot)
(Beara Barista where we got our coffee, buffalo burgers and brownies)
Day Seven
We drove for miles (or KM as they go by in Ireland) gazing out of the window overlooking causeways, lochs, sea, mountains, emerald green hillsides, lush patchwork fields, cows grazing, stone cottages, hedgerows interlaced with foxgloves, friendly faces smiling as we passed by and colour coded sheep. I enjoyed dog cuddles, a soft furred paw holding my hand, snuggling up on my lap as we looked out of the window together but having my hands over Lola’s eyes when I saw cows or sheep, other dogs or bikes ahead. She was like a rag doll in my arms and it was a dreamy drive just 'being'. We ended up at Wave Crest Caravan Park with its immaculately clean showers (spacious with a shelf for shampoo and a little bench for a bag and 2 hooks - very well designed) and kitchens. The site overlooked still water and mist over the mountain range. We cooked up a basic meal of spaghetti and sauce on our camping stove and looked out at the peaceful view.
(Foxgloves on the side of the road)
(Colour coded sheep causing a traffic jam)
(Wave Crest Campsite)
Days Eight and Nine
We broke down temporarily outside the caravan sewage box removal point, where we could actually see the vans weeing into drain and smell it too - so that was nice. Luckily, we got going pretty quickly thanks to my husband's new mechanic skills. We drove along until we came across Ce Bhaile and Sceilg (Ballinskelligs) beaches, along the Ring of Kerry, where warmed by the sun water mixed with cold of the North Atlantic sea. Later we discovered St Finan's Bay and ate lunch in a cute container cafe called An Bothan having a feast of toasted cheddar and red pepper toasties, parmesan and truffle fries and drank cortados. After realising we could wild camp opposite on a patch of grass with some surfers, we set up camp and Alan went surfing. Lola and I explored the beach and dipped our paws and toes in the water looking at the seaweed and shells strewn on the sand. I met a fellow dog walker, mum, writer and poet on the beach and we chatted together while our dogs chased each other on the sand and in and out of the water. Later that evening, we walked up the hill and ate in the Driftwood restaurant and farm shop sitting outside watching the cows go home with the sun setting over us but still high in sky for hours.
(Ballinskelligs Castle on the beach)
We stayed for free in the tiny field with a foot warn path down to the sand and flower covered rocks. The other campervans parked up made a friendly little community - a young family, a dad, his son, nephew and a dog plus a young waitress who worked at the farm shop restaurant all enjoyed the space together.
(St Finan's Bay - perfect for surfing)
(Rocks at St Finan's Bay - great for clambering)
(Pretty wild flowers in the rocks)
On the second night, we ate again at the outstandingly delicious Driftwood Surf Cafe restaurant for our 32nd wedding anniversary meal and what a place to celebrate. It was wild and windy this night so we ate inside, swaddled in warm jumpers compared to our bare arms soaking up the sun's rays the evening before.
Day Ten
Alan didn't want to leave his idyllic surf spot but it was time to move on because I was desperate for a hot shower and the wind and rain had come down really hard. It was still pretty driving along the clear country roads but too misty to see the Cliffs of Kerry or mountains and hilltops. It was lovely listening to the gale against the van windows. Lola's snoring head snoozed on my lap or she sat sitting between my husband and I, listening to music blaring from one of our playlists. Fern covered the edges. They were green compared to the rust ones we had delighted in seeing on our Autumnal Scotland trip last year.
(Misty Cliffs of Kerry)
(Mist at Dunquin)
Day Eleven
Inch Strand is on the Dingle Peninsula and on such a beautiful, extensive beach where you can see nothing else for miles. We enjoyed seeing the rippling effect when the wind whooshed over the sand blowing it up into the air and swirling around like a spirit. Lola galloped down to the waters edge to paddle her paws before dark dramatic storm clouds approached and had us all running back to the van for cover.
(Inch Beach on the Dingle coastline)
(Misty cows)
We drove on to stay near Castlegregory in Ballydavid. From the Anchor Campsite, we walked an hour along a beautiful country road, past fields of grazing cows and pretty bungalows to a pub overlooking the water where Alan had pint of Guinness which he said tasted better because he was drinking it in Ireland. We made the walk back in the pitch dark and got caught in torrential rain that soaked us to the skin. It was a low point of the trip, snuggling down into wet sleeping bags with a wet dog. The following nights Alan lifted Lola up to the baby sleeping bay, so we had more chance to keep dry, should we get caught in a rainstorm again plus gave us a lot more leg room. I was excited to use the campsite washing machine and tumble dryer before bed, as a treat (especially as we don’t have a tumble dryer at home and was looking forward to soft, fluffy towels in the morning) but they did not dry properly when the sun came up, so we enjoyed showers followed by a damp pat down afterwards.
(The Tigh TP pub in Ballydavid where Alan had a proper Guinness)
(Lola in the baby sleeping bay)
Day Twelve
Much more beauty was seen from the campervan window as we pootled past fields of emerald green, swathes of beaches, moss covered rocks, misty skies and dramatic clouds. We drove via Dingle which is a lively, quirky and arty town and I would like to go back to one day. As our trip was mainly about the nature, we carried on our travels until we reached Brandon where we ate a hearty meal at Nora Murphy's pub which was wonderful with friendly service and a great view of the ocean. Beale surf beach carpark was our last sleepover on our trip along the Wild Atlantic Way. Luckily, our van just about fitted under the height barrier but then we popped up the roof and set up camp*. Alan went for surf, I walked Lola along the beach, drank two beers and read, in between gazing at the pretty pink and lilac sunset. We got rocked to sleep by the wind and woke up to sunshine and the need for coffee.
(View down to Brandon Beach)
(Nora Murphy's pub in Brandon)
(Setting up camp in Beale Strand car park)
(Storm cloud at Beale Strand)
(At the edge of Beale Strand car park)
(Beale Strand)
Days Thirteen and Fourteen
It was time to depart The Wild Atlantic Way as we headed towards Wicklow via Limerick to go and stay with friends in their 18th century stone cottage surrounded by countryside for a few days. We had also had posted a part for our van which had started to stall quite often and Alan was piecing the engine together with tin foil. Don't ask. I joined my friend for a yoga class which was blissful before heading back for lunch and walking our dogs down along the river to a waterfall. It felt like being in a rainforest. We enjoyed the luxury of a proper bed, shower, toilet and a beautiful walled garden with roses to sit in. It was so lovely to have a female friend to chat to - and a male friend for Alan. In the evening we had a BBQ together with their daughter. It made me homesick for my own house, garden and made me miss my daughters, mum, sister and friends even more.
(Wicklow waterfall)
We caught the Donkey train from Greystones into Dublin, where we visited the road that Alan’s grandparents grew up. Neighbours came out to tell us where other family members had lived over the years - they were so friendly and helpful. Alan's grandparents had met living in the same road and then married and rented a room in big house at the opposite end of their street. They moved to England when Alan’s mum was 7.
(The Bath pub, Dublin near to Alan's ancestors)
Day Fifteen
We started the last leg of the journey back to catch the ferry at Rosslare from Wicklow.
The Rosslare to Fishguard crossing was a dream as Alan and I slept on bunkbeds in a pet cabin again, after a refreshing shower this time. Lola stretched out on her dog bed. It was a bit more choppy on the journey home but we were all just rocked to sleep. We arrived in Fishguard at 11pm and we spent the night in at the lovely well kept Conifers Campsite in Newport.
(Conifers Campsite, Newport)
(Gloria on her chocks)
(Lola on the rock'n'roll bed)
Days Sixteen to Twenty One
We had to keep the campervan engine going as scared it would conk out on the way to Bridport, where we had arranged to collect a part from our old neighbours who live there now - it never arrived in Wicklow. We made it onto Eype House Campsite, a few miles down the road. We got to an electric hook up and started to charge up. Such a gorgeous campsite. Not for the faint hearted, the site has a steep drive up a hill which is a bit touch and go but once you’re at your level spot, the views are spectacular and it’s so peaceful. Jessamine Cottage at the entrance to the campsite is so pretty, full of cottage garden flowers and tended to as a labour of love from owner there. It was only a 5 minute walk to the beach or for dinner at Eype Mouth Hotel, 10 mins to the delicious New Inn pub and 35 minutes walk into Bridport.
(At the top of Eype House Campsite, Dorset)
We went to a fabulous house warming party at our old neighbours on the Saturday night and slept in our campervan in their glorious garden. We then travelled homeward bound after being away for a month in Granada, Ireland, Wales and Dorset. It is now time to enjoy some time grounded at home and reflect on all the beauty we have seen, all the wonderful people we met on the road and time to plan our next adventure in Gloria the campervan.
(At our ex neighbour's house warming garden party)
*
*Set up camp makes it sound effortless but what is involved is somewhat a palaver. When we stop for the night, first the van has to be made level by checking the spirit level and putting chocks under the wheels. Next, the roof is popped up and all our bags and clutter moved up to the shelving area above. Sleeping bags are rolled out and pillows laid down. The cool box is positioned to step down if need to have to go to the toilet during the night. There is also an emergency potty handy plus toilet paper and hand sanitizer. We usually have the bed already out so can do away with the palaver of setting it up every night. If it's raining or freezing cold and we can't eat on our deckchairs outside, then we unscrew the bed legs and pack away the rock'n'roll bed into a bench seat and screw the bed legs onto the table and can sit inside to stay warm and dry eating, drinking and playing cards.
*
Where we stayed:
Allihies Camping, The Strand, Allihies, Beara, Co. Cork, Cork, Ireland
Anchor Campsite, Castlegregory, Dingle Peninsula
Conifers Campsite, Newport
Eype House Campsite, Eype in Dorset
Where we ate:
Nora Murphy's Pub & Grub, Brandon Point, Dingle Peninsula
Eype Mouth Hotel, Eype, Dorset