My husband and I finally got to take Gloria, our 1970 VW Campervan, on an adventure to the Lake District and Scotland. Gloria has been sitting pretty in her carport after two months at a repair garage, since breaking down in Birmingham on the way to Ireland/Scotland/Wales - we hadn’t decided where but just to see how far she would travel. She was now ready for action - for a proper roadtrip.
After a slow but hassle free drive with sixties music blaring, our first stop was Old Dungeon Ghyll Hikers Bar in Langdale of the Lake District. We reached it in the pitch dark and enjoyed fish and chips at the quiet pub, which was scattered with a few people reading and sipping pints by the roaring log fire. Then we popped the roof up on our van and snuggled into our cosy sleeping bags, which lay on top of three thin mattresses, like my favourite childhood fairytale, Princess and the Pea. We fell to sleep under the stars, in the carpark - we’re classy like that.
Cosy sleeping bags...
The next day we awoke to fields of painted Herdwick sheep, surrounded by misty, mountain hillsides. Up the road from the pub hailed a National Trust campsite called Great Langdales which bestowed on us the best shower block in camping history. After emerging clean and refreshed, it had started raining, so we jumped in Gloria and headed into Ambleside. On the way, we passed through the village of Langdale where sheep were grazing in the carpark, as if it was the most natural thing in the world. It was such a relaxed atmosphere. We had lunch in a weather boarded cute cafe and mooched around a few shops then returned to the site.
Herdwick sheep...
We went back to the pub that evening for music night, where the landlord played the fiddle, two people played guitars, three were on penny whistles and one woman was singing (Honeywitch). I made a friend with a wild haired woman from our campsite, who had been travelling in her campervan and two dogs for three months after a divorce - she was so inspirational. We shook tambourines and maracas together, having great fun dancing along with the band. It was such a friendly atmosphere and even the dogs in the pub joined in.
My husband rustled up two espressos from our little machine the following morning, which was plugged into our leisure battery. We started the day sitting in our camp chairs, looking up at the sun drenched mountains in all their beautiful, autumnal glory. We pulled on our walking boots and took Lola on the circular walk around Blea Tairn - through tall pine woods, past russet ferns and up Side Pike before it started to rain. We got drenched as we made our way to Sticklebarn National Trust cafe for lunch. A member of staff put a 'Wet Area' yellow plastic sign beside our table after Lola had managed to spill her water bowl over. Embarrassing. Enjoyed another night at the pub for a more sedate evening and another helping of their delicious chicken pie, mash and green vegetables.
Trail around Blea Tairn...
Blea Tairn (Little Lake)...
Wet dog...
We were sad to leave our new friend and campsite but excited to venture onto Scotland to see the dramatic scenery that awaited. We reached Loch Lomond by the time it was dark, many hours later - after a shopping spree in Ambleside for new walking boots and waterproof fleece lined trousers - who knew such bliss existed? The moonlight shone down on the loch, which was magnificent as we walked Lola to the lodge restaurant for dinner. It was torrential rain all night long and the next day, we decided to head straight off and enjoy all the marvellous views from our windows.
Dry stone wall...
(You can tell the National Trust look after much of the Lake District by the perfectly constructed dry stone walls and fences).
Rainy Window...
We had been recommended the North Coast 500 route but driving it in our van, would be too precarious, so we took the coastal road instead. It was the most spectacular drive with munros to gaze up at in all their amber and ochre splendour. Glen Coe did not disappoint, after I have dreamed of visiting to see its sheer beauty since watching James McAvoy's movie, 'My Son', which was filmed there. I took so many photos, as I could just not believe how incredible it was - including the highland cows, just relaxing by the sides of the road. We hardly passed any other vehicles and it was a single track road most of the way, passing by serene lochs and beautiful scenery until we reached Applecross Bay. We got to the Applecross Inn just in time for last food orders and relaxed in the warm, welcoming atmosphere with twinkling fairy lights around the bar - and lots of other dogs to keep Lola company. I ate a delicious bowl of mushroom penne and my husband had fish pie. We slept in the pub car park (becoming a bit of a habit) as we were too late to book into a campsite. A storm was brewing and we were gently rocked to sleep in Gloria.
A winding road...
Lola enjoying the views of Glen Coe...
Glen Coe in all it's glory...
Gloria on the road...
A resting highland cow...
The views of Loch Torridon were amazing as we drove into Shieldaig. We were meant to just stop to let Lola have a run on the beach but as we walked down the stone steps towards the shore, I managed to slip and land on my back. I cried out in agony and my husband helped me up as I was sobbing and hobbling back up to the van. Lola's escape was cut short and she was packed back in too. But, we decided not to drive on to Ullapool as previously planned, as it was too painful to sit in the van being bumped about. We set up camp instead at the stunning Shieldaig campsite, right bang opposite Shieldaig Island. It was clear skies and sunny, so I braved a walk with my sore spine; some paracetamol starting to dull the pain and took in the peninsula and absolute beauty from wherever you looked. A hot shower later saw to my aches and pains for the time being and we walked Lola to the local pub for a delicious feast. I ate vegetarian haggis, neeps and tatties and his nibs enjoyed cullen skink, a traditional clam chowder. We shared sticky toffee pudding and apple crumble over a game of cards with Baileys on ice.
Boats on Loch Torridon, outside Shieldag...
Seaweed steps at Shieldaig, opposite Shieldag Island...
Veggie Haggis, Neets and Tatties...
The next day it was raining and so we got back on the road and stopped off at the Wee Whistle Stop cafe in Torridon for frittata and espresso to help us on our way. We wove our way across more delightful roads towards Aviemore to take in the East Coast landscape. This countryside was purple and dark green in contrast to the oranges and rusts of the West Coast. We parked up at a great site called Glen More, which was right on a pine fringed beach leading into a clear, crisp loch. It was the first time Lola could run free off her lead and she went wild - even running into the loch to dip her paws and drink the clean water. After setting up our campervan and getting our sleeping bags at the ready, we popped up the roof and headed over to the ski shack restaurant, The Pine Marten Bar, for refreshments of nachos, beer and prosecco. Another night being rocked to sleep in the stormy rain, scared our van would fall over but feeling warm and cosy at the same time.
Pine fringed beach to Loch Morlich...
Lola quenches her thirst in Loch Morlich...
Our last night was spent back at Old Dungeon Ghyll pub and car park, as even though we did want to travel back via the Peak District, it was too far to reach in one day in our slow moving campervan and so we opted for a sure and safe haven. There were so many places we didn't get time to visit but are on our wishlist for a future adventure - The Isle of Skye, Inner and Outer Hebrides, the North Coast 500 route plus seeing more of the Lake District. There is still so much to see. As my Dad says; "it's nice to go away but it's nice to come home," and I must admit, I did appreciate a long soak in a hot bath of Epsom salts once we were back home to ease my back and wash away the smell of wet dog from my hair and clothes.
Where we ate and stayed:
Old Dungeon Ghyll Hiker's Bar, Langdale, Lake District - http://www.odg.co.uk
The Great Langdale, National Trust Campsite, Lake District - https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays/great-langdale-campsite-lake-district
Applecross Inn Pub - https://www.applecrossinn.co.uk
Shieldag Campsite - https://www.shieldaigcampingandcabins.co.uk/campsite
Shieldag Bar & Coastal Kitchen - http://www.shieldaigbarcoastalkitchen.co.uk
The Wee Whistle Stop Cafe, Torridon - https://restaurantguru.com/The-Wee-Whistle-Stop-at-the-Loch-Torridon-Community-Hall-Torridon
Glenmore Campsite, Aviemore - https://www.campingintheforest.co.uk/scotland/aviemore/glenmore-campsite
The Pine Marten Bar - https://www.visitcairngorms.com/listing/2412/the-pine-marten-bar/